Shirt Fabrics

A shirt fabric begins as cotton, which is spun into yarn, then woven into fabric, and finally subjected to various "finishing" processes for optimal appearance and performance over time.

Each of our fabrics is derived from extra long staple cotton, historically grown in Egypt and the Sea Islands.  The thin, long, smooth nature of these fibers allows the spinning of yarns that result in a softer, more supple fabric.

The yarn number, a measure of the thickness of each yarn, is the most frequently cited measure of fabric quality.  Our Kent Collection features 140 and 170 yarn number fabrics.  The higher the yarn number, the finer the fabric.

All of our fabrics are two-ply, meaning that two yarns have been twisted around one another to create a composite yarn of greater durability that resists the normal tendancy to shed or pill.

The mills give life to the raw yarn creating the nuanced designs and vibrant colors that distinguish our fabric collection.  Our suppliers are among the most sought after mills in Switzerland and Italy.  They include Albini, Alumo, Grandi and Rubinelli, S.I.C. Tess, Testa and Thomas Mason.

POPLINS  SEE ALL POPLINS

Plain weave with a fine horizontal rib. Lends a lustrous and smooth surface; is lightweight, yet strong and durable; resistant to shrinkage or stretching.
Classic Poplin
Light to wear, cool to the skin and looks clean and crisp in bright colors.  Frequently marketed under the misnomer Sea Island.
End on End Poplin
Yields a familiar crosshatched appearance by using a lighter and darker shade of the same color.
TWILLS  SEE ALL TWILLS

Characterized by a distinct, diagonal rib effect which gives the fabric a high color luster.
Pima Twill
One of the best grades of cotton in the world. Found in only finer-quality shirtings. This easy-iron fabric is woven on the bias, for a smooth and elegant feel.
Royal Twill
Pronounced diagonal structure. The typical, lightly shimmering look of ribbed twill gives plain shirts an interesting accent.
Herringbone Twill
Chevron pattern with yams in two colors to accentuate the design. Silky and smooth. Available in 1/8" and 1/4" varieties.
OXFORDS  SEE ALL OXFORDS

Basket weave. Slightly more weight than poplins and most twills.
Royal Oxford
Dyed and undyed threads are woven together to create vibrant color. Soft but durable fabric.
Pique/Dobby
Small, uncomplicated raised designs which are often white-on-white or tone-on-tone. Medium weight and very crisp. The most elegant oxford weaving.
Pinpoint
Durable and flat finished fabric, which combines the qualities of the poplin and oxford weaves. Less likely to wrinkle.
OTHERS
Zephyr  SEE ALL ZEPHYRS
Similar to a poplin, but lighter weight.
Voile  SEE ALL VOILES
Ideal summer weight fabric. Porous and breathable, but not sheer. Similar weavings included here.
Novelty  SEE ALL NOVELTIES
Variety of raised designs on cloth, including satin stripes and jacquards. Other items that do not fall into available classifications.
TUXEDO FRONTS  SEE ALL TUXEDOS

The front of the tuxedo shirt only. The body of the shirt is typically lightweight white poplin.
Pleating Tuxedo Front Dobby Tuxedo Front

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