A shirt fabric begins as cotton, which is spun into yarn, then woven into fabric,
and finally subjected to various "finishing" processes for optimal appearance and performance over time.
Each of our fabrics is derived from extra long staple cotton, historically grown in Egypt
and the Sea Islands. The thin, long, smooth nature of these fibers allows the spinning of yarns that
result in a softer, more supple fabric.
The yarn number, a measure of the thickness of each yarn, is the most frequently cited
measure of fabric quality. Our Kent Collection features 140 and 170 yarn number fabrics. The higher
the yarn number, the finer the fabric.
All of our fabrics are two-ply, meaning that two yarns have been twisted around one another
to create a composite yarn of greater durability that resists the normal tendancy to shed or pill.
The mills give life to the raw yarn creating the nuanced designs and vibrant colors that
distinguish our fabric collection. Our suppliers are among the most sought after mills in Switzerland
and Italy. They include Albini, Alumo, Grandi and Rubinelli, S.I.C. Tess, Testa and Thomas Mason.
POPLINS
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Plain weave with a fine horizontal
rib. Lends a lustrous and smooth surface; is lightweight, yet strong and
durable; resistant to shrinkage or stretching.
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Classic Poplin
Light to wear, cool to the skin and looks clean and crisp in bright colors. Frequently
marketed under the misnomer Sea Island.
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End on End Poplin
Yields a familiar crosshatched appearance by using a lighter and darker shade of the same color.
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TWILLS
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Characterized by a distinct, diagonal rib effect which gives the fabric a high color luster.
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Pima Twill
One of the best grades of cotton in the world. Found in only finer-quality shirtings. This easy-iron
fabric is woven on the bias, for a smooth and elegant feel.
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Royal Twill
Pronounced diagonal structure. The typical, lightly shimmering look of ribbed twill gives plain shirts an
interesting accent.
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Herringbone Twill
Chevron pattern with yams in two colors to accentuate the design.
Silky and smooth. Available in 1/8" and 1/4" varieties.
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OXFORDS
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Basket weave. Slightly more weight than poplins and most twills.
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Royal Oxford
Dyed and undyed threads are woven together to create vibrant color.
Soft but durable fabric.
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Pique/Dobby
Small, uncomplicated raised designs which are often white-on-white or
tone-on-tone. Medium weight and very crisp. The most elegant
oxford weaving.
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Pinpoint
Durable and flat finished fabric, which combines the qualities of the
poplin and oxford weaves. Less likely to wrinkle.
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OTHERS
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Zephyr
SEE ALL ZEPHYRS
Similar to a poplin, but lighter weight.
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Voile
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Ideal summer weight fabric. Porous and breathable, but not sheer.
Similar weavings included here.
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Novelty
SEE ALL NOVELTIES
Variety of raised designs on cloth, including satin stripes and
jacquards. Other items that do not fall into available classifications.
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TUXEDO FRONTS
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The front of the tuxedo shirt only. The body of the shirt is typically
lightweight white poplin.
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Pleating Tuxedo Front
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Dobby Tuxedo Front
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